Will the planting of lots of genetically improved black cherry trees have an effect on the prices in 30 years?
First, it's not true that lots of genetically improved cherry trees are being planted. Such trees have only been available for a couple years and even then only in very small quantities. Second, the demand for black cherry is based on its appearance. That hasn't changed and won't change. It's been one of the more popular woods for fine furniture, cabinets, paneling, gunstocks, etc. Along with teak, mahogany and walnut, it remains one of the most popular woods around the world. Third, according demographers, there will be at least two billion affluent people around the world in 30 years. Those people will have the money and desire to own the finer things in life. Black cherry is one of those. Of course, it's not easy to predict prices of anything in 30 years, let alone something like black cherry, which, unlike corn, soybeans, coffee, iron ore, etc., does not have an accurate published pricing history.
Although planting these genetically improved trees sounds like a great idea, I'm 50-years old and I'd be in my 70s before they'd be ready for harvesting. What's the point?
The point is, if we don't plant the trees now, no one will experience the benefits of harvesting them. Most people, in fact, plant these trees as part of an estate they plan on leaving to their children and grandchildren.
People who complain about the length of time it takes for the trees to reach harvestable size often remark that "if only my dad had planted these trees when I was a kid…" Isn't it odd that they don't see themselves and their reluctance to plant for their children in the same light?
With stock prices slumping, corporate earnings tanking, the trade deficit escalating, and our manufacturing base on a one-way trip to Mexico, China, South Korea, etc., we need to invest in something here that helps both ourselves and our country. Walnut and cherry are treasured around the world for their beauty. That's not going to change.
On the other hand, for those who insist on reaping the benefits of planting these trees themselves, it is possible to extract value from the trees before they reach harvestable size. Once the trees have reached a certain diameter, say, 10 inches DBH, it is possible for a commercial forester to estimate their value. That way it is possible to sell the plantation by about the 15th year and reap a handsome profit.
Another way is to buy a plantation of these genetically improved trees from someone who doesn't want to wait until they reach harvestable size.
Why not buy state seedlings or regular nursery seedlings?
As the saying goes, you get what you pay for. The few plantations of run-of-the-nursery seedlings that have survived are composed mostly of trees that will not provide prime veneer-grade logs. Those that will provide veneer-grade logs may take up to twice as long to reach harvestable size.
How many trees per acre should I plant?
We recommend planting the grafted trees no closer than 15 feet by 20 feet (15' x 20') and the seedlings no closer than 15 feet by 15 feet (15' x 15'). That comes to 140 grafts and 200 seedlings per acre. This density presupposes that you will be harvesting at least some of the trees as soon as they are of proper size, approximately 15 inches DBH. Because not all the seedlings will produce a veneer grade log, you will have to thin some of them, normally about 30 percent, leaving an average of 140 trees per acre. You might consider harvesting over a period of years, which has the advantage of allowing the remaining trees more room to grow.
My forester says it’s better to plant 400 to 500 trees per acre and then thin out the bad ones over time.
This belief is based on the assumption that a majority of the trees, perhaps as much as 90 percent, will be bad. If you plant the grafted trees, none will be bad, unless damaged by outside factors (most of which are under your control).
If planting 500 trees per acres sounds like a good idea to you, imagine the work required to cut down and remove 450 ten-year old trees. It is back-breaking work.
What’s the difference between the grafts and seedlings?
Grafts are genetically identical clones of the parent cultivars. Seedlings are offspring of the parent cultivars. All grafts are essentially the same, barring environmental influences. Seedlings vary somewhat from the parent trees (just as we vary from our parents). Theoretically, a certain percentage of the seedlings should be better; however, we’ve seen very few that are. On the average, all the grafts will grow up to produce veneer-grade logs in 25 to 30 years, assuming they’re raised properly and nature cooperates. The seedlings, on the average will take five to ten years longer to reach harvestable size and about 70 percent will have the same form as the grafts (one on a scale of one to five, where one is a “perfectly straight” tree and five is basically a bush).
Why are the grafts so much more expensive than the seedlings?
Grafts are the result of splicing together scion wood from the parent cultivars and common black cherry root stock. Scion wood must be collected after the parent trees go dormant. It must be collected only from certain parts of trees of a certain age. The scion wood is graded, sorted and stored in coolers. At roughly the same time, root stock is planted in pots having a certain type of soil and placed in a laboratory, in which the levels of light, temperature, humidity, etc., are carefully controlled. The grafting takes place only as the root stock begins to come out of dormancy. It’s a very costly, labor-intensive process. The majority of growers believe the grafts are worth the higher price. However, an acre of seedlings costs about half as much as an acre of grafts, so your initial investment is a lot less. But the grafts normally grow faster and more of them should produce veneer-grade trees. It may therefore make sense to plant grafts first, seedlings later. That way you'll be able to take advantage of an earlier harvest while reducing your over-all per tree cost. Actually, when you consider that the potential payoff could be several hundred thousand dollars an acre in 30 years, whether you pay $2,000 an acre or $4,000 an acre makes little difference.
Will these trees grow in my area?
Black cherry trees will do very well in hardiness zones 5 and 6 and moderately well in zones 4 and 7; however, in the drier (western) portions of those zones, irrigation is strongly recommended. Just as important as climate, is the quality of the soil. Look for soil that is at least three feet deep, with sub-soil that allows for good drainage. Avoid soils with a thick layer of blue or heavy brown clay and frangipans. A site with moderate amounts of clay can often be treated with a solution that breaks loose the bound water found in such soils. If you have this kind of soil, you might want to give us a call to discuss possible solutions. There should be nothing beneath this layer of top soil to impede drainage. Obviously, if water percolates well though the topsoil, the subsoil is most likely okay. Most soils are compacted to a degree. In preparation for planting we strongly recommend using a subsoil implement to loosen the soil. Doing so will also make it easier to dig the holes when that time comes.
What are these outside factors (factors that could damage the trees)?
Wind probably causes the most damage, especially in Illinois and points farther west. If wind is a problem in your area, you should consider planting our fast-growing hybrid poplar and/or willow trees as a windbreak. In case of wind damage, simply cut the tree off below the break and it will re-grow. Since the root systems are then bigger, the new growth will soon catch up to the rest of the tree. Insect damage is rare but does occasionally occur.
I’ve heard that black cherry trees have gum spots and this can reduce their value.
This is true with wild black cherry trees; however, one of the goals of the genetic selection that was done to produce these cultivars was to reduce and hopefully eliminate gum spots. Although there is no assurance this latter goal has been achieved and we won't know for sure until the trees are harvested, we believe these varieties do have fewer and smaller gum spots.
How big are the trees when we get them?
The foliated grafts come in pots, which are half-gallon milk containers. The tree itself, above the root collar, is about one to two feet tall. The dormant trees are “topped” about half way up the stem to prevent splitting. This makes them one to two feet long, including the roots.
Are there any special requirements for growing these trees?
Yes, but it isn’t rocket science. It’s mostly just good old common sense. To do well, the trees have to be fed and watered. That means controlling weeds so that when you feed and water the trees, you’re actually feeding and watering the trees and not the weeds around them. It means having a soil test done occasionally to make sure the trees are getting the right mix of nutrients.
What are tree protectors and why do you recommend them?
Tree protectors are 48-inch long polyethylene tubes that are installed around the trees to protect them from animals, severe weather, herbicide drift, and even near-sighted tractor drivers. They also enhance vertical growth the first couple years. Greenwood has a lot of experience with all sorts of tree protectors and the ones we now use are the most effective we've ever seen, bar none. In fact, in hundreds of black walnut plantations these protectors have successfully prevented deer and other animals from reaching and killing the trees.
Why 48-inch protectors?
That seems to be the optimal size, not so tall that it lengthens the time required for the tree to emerge from the top and not so short as to invite deer damage. Our research shows that the protector should be at least six to eight inches above the "munch zone," which for whitetails is 30 to 40 inches above ground level.
When should I plant the trees in my area?
The foliated trees should be planted in the spring only after the danger of frost has passed. Dormant trees should be planted in the spring two to four weeks prior to the frost-free date in your area. Dormant trees may also be planted in the fall in zones six and seven. The best time is when the trees have gone dormant in your area. It is possible to plant in the fall in the southern half of zone five (5b on the Hardiness Map) if the area around the trees is then thoroughly covered with mulch.
How fast should I expect the trees to grow the first year?
How much your trees grow the first year or two depends mostly on how well the roots do. If they adapt well and get off to a good start, you could see some pretty remarkable growth. However, it sometimes takes a year or two for the adaptation process to run its course. Because grafted trees have been growing since late winter and the transfer from greenhouse to field is a little more stressful, you may not see much growth the first year. Sometimes the trees actually begin going dormant their first year in July. This is normal and so long as the leaves look healthy it’s nothing to be concerned about. They’ll eventually catch up to the others.
How much time does it take to properly care for these trees?
On the average, beyond planting the trees, figure about five to 15 minutes per tree per year, though not all at the same time. The major tasks are applying lime, fertilizer and herbicide (normally two to three applications per year, except for lime, which is normally applied only about once every three years) and pruning (normally once every two to three years for each tree).
Are my trees going to be leafed-out when I receive them or bare-root?
We are in the process of upgrading our propagation methodology to one that enables us to ship grafted trees while they are dormant and bare-root.
The older grafting technology requires us to furnish trees that are leafed-out (foliated) and in pots. Shipping is difficult and harder on foliated trees than it is on bare-root trees. Upon arriving at their destination foliated trees must be placed immediately in a protected environment with access to sunlight. They need to be watered regularly. One advantage of foliated trees is that the window for planting is broader; however, foliated trees often take a year to adapt to their new home.
Bare-root, dormant trees are easier to ship and handle. Because the trees are "asleep" they are not as susceptible to bumps and jolts. They adapt to their new home quickly and more readily than foliated trees do. While bare-root trees do need to be planted soon after arrival, they can be stored in a cool place up to about ten days, as long as the roots are kept moist. They can also be "heeled in" if more time is needed.
The older grafts used parafilm and rubber bands to hold the graft union together. The parafilm and rubber had to be loosened before the beginning of the trees' second season; otherwise, they could girdle and kill the tree. The new grafting methodology does not use parafilm and rubber bands; therefore, there is no need to remove them
All in all, the advantages of bare-root grafts over foliated grafts are substantial.
Until the transition from the old grafting to the new grafting methodology is complete, it is possible that some people may receive foliated grafts.
Is there any government money available to tree farmers?
Yes, actually quite a bit. The biggest benefit is the tax credit that Reforestation Tax Credit and Amortization provides. If you qualify, you can claim a ten percent investment tax credit for the first $10,000 you spend for reforestation during the tax year. In addition, you can amortize (deduct) all of reforestation costs (up to $10,000), minus half the tax credit taken, over the next seven years.
There are also two conservation programs that provide cost-share money for planting trees. Both are administered by the Farm Service Agency. They are CRP (Conservation Reserve Program) and CREP (Conservation Reserve Enhancment Program).
Each of these programs has requirements and stipulations before you can be accepted into their programs. If you're interested, you should contact your district forester or the Farm Service Agnecy or for more information you should check out www.timbertax.org/ and www.fsa.usda.gov.
Is there any guarantee? What if the trees die?
If dormant trees are planted properly and do not leaf out by July first, they will be replaced free of charge (except shipping). If the foliated trees are planted properly and die within the first two years, they will be replaced at a cost of $12 (plus shipping).
